RAP ANCHORS

Rap anchors should be absolutely bomber, unobtrusive and user friendly. Equalise the two or more bolts so that no single anchor is taking all the force. Position anchors in an easy to reach location so climbers don't have to do anything dangerous and un-roped to reach them. In sensitive wilderness areas try and use one rap point for multiple routes.

Lower-off and belay anchors need to be replaceable. Repetitive use as top-rope anchors and abseil stations wears out the metal of the anchor and eventually it needs replacement. When installing rap anchors in high use areas it is advised to use stainless steel mallions or shackles on the rings or U's so they can be unscrewed and replaced in the future. Locktight the mallions closed so thieves cannot steal them easily. Wire the mallion onto the anchor so it cannot spin upside down and be unscrewed with rope pulling.

Twisted D Shackles on U-bolts with wire holding the shackle upright.	U-bolt worn from direct rope wear as no shackle was used. This anchor is less than 5 years old.

Another option is to weld stainless chain links threw the eye of the ring during production. When the chain links wear out they can be cut off and replaced with a standard but more expensive mallion.

Re-Bolt Victoria produced ringbolt with welded in chain through eye.	Ringbolt with welded in chain through eye in rock.

Rap chains are usually bigger and thus more obtrusive. Only place chains if you need to extend an anchor over an edge for an easier rope pull. When using chains make sure the chain is replaceable. Gluing in machine bolts looped over chain links directly makes it impossible to replace the chain without removing the bolt. Instead use expansion bolts or threaded glue in rods with a nut on the top.

A Fixe brand rap chain attached by glue in threaded studs with external nuts.